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Esperanza Rivera de Torre

LYOCELL VS VISCOSE: WOOD PULP-BASED FIBERS

Updated: Jul 26, 2023

As a wool lover myself, I wear and knit with wool all year round. However, I’m a privileged knitter living in a Nordic country where it's 10° C in May, and I understand that not everyone can enjoy this luxury. If you live closer to the equator, you may be eager to get your hands on summer fibers. That's why I want to provide you with some background on how fibers are produced and their environmental impact to help you decide the best material for your summer knitting.


I've already reviewed some of the most eco-friendly summer fibers, but there are still some options to consider, including Lyocell and Viscose.




Wood pulp-based fibers with different manufacturing processes


Lyocell and viscose are both cellulose-based fibers, but they are made using different production processes and have different properties.


Viscose, also known as rayon, is produced by dissolving wood pulp in a chemical solvent and then spinning the resulting solution into fibers. This process is known as the viscose process. Viscose is a relatively inexpensive fiber to produce.


Lyocell, on the other hand, is made using a closed-loop production process that involves dissolving wood pulp in a non-toxic solvent and then spinning the resulting solution into fibers. This process is known as the lyocell process. It's considered a more sustainable and eco-friendly fiber than viscose, as it uses less water and energy in production, and the solvent used is non-toxic and can be recycled.




Same origin, but different properties


In terms of knitting experience, both lyocell and viscose fibers are soft and have a silky feel, making them pleasant to work with. However, lyocell fibers tend to have more stitch definition and hold their shape better than viscose, which can be more prone to stretching or losing its shape during the knitting process. This can make Lyocell a better choice for intricate or detailed knitting patterns.


You might have also heard about Tencel, which is just a branded name of Lyocell: the fiber, manufacture process, and properties are the same!


When it comes to durability, lyocell fibers are generally more durable than viscose fibers. Lyocell is more resistant to shrinking, stretching, and wrinkling, and it also has better color retention over time. Viscose, on the other hand, is less durable and can be more prone to pilling, snagging, and losing its shape over time.


Cross sections of viscose, lyocell and cotton fibers: (a) viscose fiber; (b) lyocell fiber; (c) cotton fiber (Jiang 2020 Journal of Bioresources and Bioproducts)



Choose your favorite fiber considering the project


Overall, both lyocell and viscose fibers have their advantages and disadvantages when it comes to knitting and durability. Lyocell may be a better choice for garments or projects that require greater durability and stitch definition. In comparison, viscose may be a better choice for projects that prioritize drape and softness. Ultimately, the choice between the two fibers will depend on the specific needs and preferences of the knitter.


Always take into consideration that making our own clothes is already an act of care for the planet, as we care for our garments and stand out the fast fashion: the more you use your knitted clothes, the more sustainable it is!

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